Anomalous wave statistics following sudden depth transitions: Application of an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation

Paul Bonar, Colm Fitzgerald, Zhiliang Lin, Ton van den Bremer, Thomas Adcock, Alistair Borthwick

Research output: Contribution to journalArticlepeer-review

Abstract / Description of output

Recent studies of water waves propagating over sloping seabeds have shown that sudden transitions from deeper to shallower depths can produce significant increases in the skewness and kurtosis of the free surface elevation and hence in the probability of rogue wave occurrence. Gramstad et al. (2013, Phys. Fluids 25 (12): 122103) have shown that the key physics underlying these increases can be captured by a weakly dispersive and weakly nonlinear Boussinesq-type model. In the present paper, a numerical model based on an alternative Boussinesq-type formulation is used to repeat these earlier simulations. Although qualitative agreement is achieved, the present model is found to be unable to reproduce accurately the findings of the earlier study. Model parameter tests are then used to demonstrate that the present Boussinesq-type formulation is not well-suited to modelling the propagation of waves over sudden depth transitions. The present study nonetheless provides useful insight into the complexity encountered when modelling this type of problem and outlines a number of promising avenues for further research.
Original languageEnglish
Number of pages11
JournalJournal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy
Early online date21 Apr 2021
DOIs
Publication statusE-pub ahead of print - 21 Apr 2021

Keywords / Materials (for Non-textual outputs)

  • Rogue wave
  • freak wave
  • BOUSSINESQ-TYPE EQUATIONS
  • skewness
  • kurtosis

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